"A Do-It-Yourself Guide To
Removing And Replacing A Toilet Wax Ring"

A wax ring is an extremely important component to your toilet. It seals the toilet to the flange and it's used to seal the water and sewer gas into the soil stack.

How to tell if it's time for a new wax ring. If you find water or moisture around your toilet on the floor, it's probably time to replace your wax ring.

Tools for the job:

• A helper - some toilets can be heavy. An extra hand will make the job easier.
• New wax ring
• Scraper
• Household cleaner
• Rags and sponges
• Adjustable wrench

Note: All tools and materials are available at your local home store, with exception of the helper!

DO YOU HAVE THE MOST EFFICIENT FURNACE FILTER IN YOUR HOME?

In the past, we've talked about the importance of changing you furnace filter. A trip to your local home improvement store will literally provide you with a dozen different furnace filters to choose from - ranging in price from 49 cents to 15 dollars! How do you know which one is right for your home?

Before we get into the "nitty-gritty," I want to dispel a common myth. a furnace filter is not just designed to clean the air in your home, it's also designed to protect the furnace equipment and reduce wear and tear.

The other reason to keep your furnace filter clean is your health. A study done by the Mayo Clinic in 1999 found that mold is the culprit in most chronic sinus infections. Dust, pet dander, and other pollutants can aggravate health problems.

A special filter rating system, called MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) has been devised to help consumers choose the most efficient filter. The MERV shown on packaging of most filters is based on the filter's ability to capture particles larger than one micron. The values range from one to twelve. A one rating captures the least amount of particles and a twelve rating captures the most.

Filters are rated when they are new. As they accumulate particles, the spaces between the fibers in the filter become smaller, allowing them to trap progressively smaller particles. Generally, a furnace filter should be changed every three months. Factors that may shorten the life of a filter are dirty ducts, construction, the presence of pets and smokers.

Choosing a filter.

The least expensive and least efficient filters use a fiberglass or cellulose pad, held in a cardboard frame. These filters will not remove fine particles that can cause allergic reactions. The next level of efficiency is a washable/reusable filter. These filters have a metal frame and can be washed with a hose and reinstalled. These filters should be washed monthly and can last between three and five years.

The pleated polyester filter provides more filtering capacity. Many are made with fibers that have a permanent electrostatic charge to attract small particles. In most situations, these filters will last three months.

When it comes time to change your furnace filter, consider the options, check the MERV rating, and choose the best filter for your home.

A QUICK-FIX TO CLOSET CLUTTER - HOW TO INSTALL YOUR
OWN CLOSET ORGANIZER SYSTEM IN JUST 4 EASY STEPS!

When I first considered this article, I was going to tell you how to build your own closet organizer and then tell you how to install it. After careful thought, I abandoned the "building your own" idea, which cut out about 10 steps and several hours of work. I figure most folks would be interested in a quick-fix solution.

To complete this project, you'll need to head over to the home improvement store and pick up a manufactured, off-the-self, organizer system. Your best bet is to go with a vinyl-coated wire system. They are well constructed and easy to install.

Tools and materials you'll need:

• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Carpenter's level or water level
• Screwdriver or cordless drive/drill with drill bits
• Hollow-wall anchors
• Screws
• The shelving system

Homemade Cleaning Solutions

Stains come in all colors, shapes and sizes on all different types of fabrics. Here are some common stains and a few home-made remedies to remove them:

Lipstick and Strawberry Stains - Especially on white cotton, bright pink and red stains can be very tough to remove. Mix three equal parts of laundry bleach, water and milk in a spray bottle container. Spray the mix directly on the stain and then scrub the stain with an old toothbrush. Only use this solution on white cotton - colors can be damaged by the bleach.

Fruit Juices - Here's your best bet to remove sugary and bright colored fruit drinks such as Kool-Aid from most fabrics. Use paper towels to try and soak up as much of the spill as soon as possible. Use a clean sponge or cloth and put rubbing alcohol on the spill. You don't need to blot because alcohol evaporates quickly, so follow by putting some soapy water on the stain. Let it sit about five minutes and blot again with a paper towel. If that doesn't work as well as you had hoped, try a more potent solution by mixing two tablespoons of white vinegar with a cup of water. Apply it to the stain, let it sit, then blot.

Plastic ware - After storing fruit juices, spaghetti sauce, or any other colorful food or drink in a sealed plastic container, your storage item may begin to take on that same bright color. After unsuccessfully attempting to scrub it away, try this trick. Combine two tablespoons of uncooked rice, a few drops of liquid detergent and two ounces of cold water into the container. Seal/screw/close the top very, very well and shake it as best you can for a few minutes. Remove the top, empty the contents, and rinse with soap and water. Voila!

Copper Utensils - Because ketchup has a very high acid content, it is great for cleaning copper utensils. Wipe ketchup on utensils with a paper towel or old cloth. Rinse with soap and water.

HOW TO INSTALL A PULLOUT SHELF

If you have a T.V. set or stereo system that sits on a shelf or in a cabinet, you may want to consider installing a shelf that easily pulls out and swivels around. This will allow for easier access, better viewing and more enjoyment. Many pullout shelf kits have a platform, tracks for the platform to slide on and a swivel device to allow the shelf to rotate. A wood shelf piece may or may not be included; if it isn't included, then you may need to buy a sturdy board the size of your current shelf or smaller. Be sure that the weight of the T.V., stereo, or any other device you plan to put on the shelf isn't so heavy that it causes the entire cabinet to tip over.

Open your shelf kit and lay out the pieces. You should have: a platform, tracks, a swivel device, screws, and possibly a piece of wood. Follow these directions, and in no time you'll have your very own pullout shelf:

1. Find the Centers: Measure the width of the cabinet, find the centermost point on the shelf and mark it with a pencil. Then measure the width of the platform included in the kit, find its center point and mark it. Match up the two marked center points.
   
   * If you have doors that shut in front of this shelf, be sure they close firmly with the included wood shelf and platform in place. If they do not, slide the platform toward the back of the shelf, keeping the center points in line. When you've found a secure fit for the new sliding shelf, mark the position of the platform.
2. Attach Tracks: Slide the platform out so that the tracks are showing in the back. Screw them into place.
   
   * Pull out the platform and place the wood shelf on top of it. Rotate it back and forth to ensure that it is able to swivel in the cabinet. If it is not, cut to size.
3. Attach Wood Shelf: Place the sturdy board on the center of the kit's platform. From underneath the platform, screw the screws into bottom of the wood shelf from underneath.

INSTALL A NEW TOWEL BAR
IN JUST 4 EASY STEPS!

When installing a towel bar, keeping it tight and flush against the wall is crucial.

So before you begin, throw out those plastic wall anchors that come with your towel bar kit and pick up toggle anchors with "wings".

The "wings" on the toggle anchors will open up behind the sheetrock and ensure that your towel bar stays put! Let's begin.

Step 1 - Using a pencil, mark the location you want to mount the towel bar. Next, drill a 5/16 inch hole completely through the sheetrock. Note: if you hit a stud, you will not need the wall anchor. You can drive the mounting screw into the stud.

Step 2 - Squeeze the wings of the anchor together and push it all the way into the hole until the face of the anchor is flush with the sheetrock. If need be, you can lightly tap on the anchor with a hammer to make it flush.

Step 3 - Push a medium-sized nail through the anchor hole to open up the "wings" behind the sheetrock. You'll feel the "wings" pop open.

Step 4 - Using a hand screwdriver, drive the mounting screws and mounting plates into the anchor. Finally, hang your towel bar on the mounting plates.

All the materials you'll need to complete this job can be found at your local home store.

GIVE YOUR KITCHEN A FRESH NEW LOOK IN JUST 5 EASY STEPS!

If new cabinets are a stretch on your budget, cabinet re-facing can be a good solution for you.

You have a few options here. veneer refinishing can result in a great look, but can be tricky if you're not a pro; painting, staining and bleaching take time but are relatively simple if you know how to do it. We're going to focus on these last three methods. Let's get started!

Step 1 - First things first - use stickers to number all the cabinet doors. You'll be glad you did this when it's time to re-hang the cabinet doors! Next, remove all the doors, along with the hinges and hardware. The grunge around the hinges will give you a good idea what your next job is going to be - heavy duty cleaning!

Step 2 - You may have years of built-up cooking grease to remove. The best way to remove the grease build-up is to use a product like TSP Cleaner or mineral spirits. Or you can use this home-made wood cleaner: mix 1-quart boiling water with 3 tbsp linseed oil and 3 tbsp turpentine. Use a steel wool pad to thoroughly clean the doors, along with all visible cabinet surfaces. To be on the safe side, work outdoors when possible.

Step 3 - Lightly sand the doors and then wipe off the dust. For a superior finish, repeat step 2 and leave to dry for at least 24 hours.

Step 4 - If you're painting or staining, you can now fill in any small dents with wood filler. When the filler is completely dry, sand over the filled areas and remove the dust with a tack cloth.

Step 5 - This step will depend on which of the three following methods you've chosen:
Wood bleaching: Use wood bleach and follow the manufacturer's directions. Follow up with polyurethane or another finish of your choice.

Staining: Apply stain and follow up with a sealer. Be sure to follow product directions.

Painting: Apply an appropriate primer and finish with two top coats. For durability, a high-gloss alkyd spray makes a great choice.

Final step - Re-attach hinges and doors.
While you're at it, why not replace your cabinet hardware? New pulls or knobs can make all the difference!

When You Should or Should Not Wax a Wood Floor

Much to the surprise of some homeowners, not all wood floors should be waxed! The key is knowing the difference between what type of wood floor should or should not be waxed.

The only types of wood floors that should be waxed are those that contain a penetrating resin or a wax finish.

Not sure what type of finish you have? Here's an easy test. In an inconspicuous place, try smudging the floor with your finger or thumb. If the floor smudges, you can apply a wax buffer.

Floors that have a polyurethane-type finish should not be waxed. Wax will not adhere to polyurethane. If a polyurethane floor is waxed, the floor may have to be sanded down to remove all remnants of the wax.

If you have a non-polyurethane floor, you can wax it to bring back that like-new shine. Two of the best floor wax products on the market today are Butcher's Wax and Bruce's Wax. These two brands will give your floor a high shine!

Carefully follow the instructions on the container. If need be, you may have to apply two coats of wax to get the desired shine.

And, if you have a polyurethane floor, the best cure for a lackluster shine is to simply have the floor re-finished.

To help maintain the shine on your floor, vacuum often and use throw rugs in high traffic areas.

Hang a Wallpaper Border in 4 Easy Steps

A wallpaper border can give almost any room a fresh, stylish feel. And pre-pasted borders are so easy, you'll have one up in no time!

STEP 1: Prepare the walls by wiping clean. Decide where you're going to start and end. Pick the least noticeable spot like the corner behind a door.

STEP 2: To pencil a guideline, measure up from the floor or down from the ceiling and then use a level. Cut the border for the first wall, adding a little extra for overlapping the start and end pieces.

STEP 3: Activate the adhesive on the back of the border by soaking it in a tray of water. Unroll the wet paper as you lift it out and fold the pasted side accordion-style. This step is called 'booking'. Unfold the accordion-folded border as you move along the wall.

STEP 4: Carefully overlap at the joints to match the pattern. Then use a utility knife to cut cleanly through both layers. Work your way around the room. Now stand back and admire your handywork!

"How To Add Class & Style To Your Home With Outdoor Lighting

EASY-TO-DO OUTDOOR FURNITURE CLEANING & MAINTENANCE TIPS.

As you spend time outdoors with your family, you'll probably want your outdoor furniture to look nice, clean, and well maintained.

Here are some tips you can use to help keep your outdoor furniture clean and in good working order:

• Aluminum, wrought iron, and steel furniture: should be cleaned with mild soap and water. On non-textured surfaces, you can apply car wax to maintain the furniture. On textured surfaces, apply baby oil or mineral oil. For aluminum, occasionally spray an oil lubricant on chair swivels or glides. To remove rust from steel or wrought iron, simply sand the area, wipe clean, and apply touch-up paint.
• Outdoor wicker: should be vacuumed gently or cleaned with a soft bristle brush. Be sure to clean it periodically with a mild detergent and water, then rinse thoroughly and let it air dry.
• Outdoor seat cushions: should first be vacuumed. Clean by sponging with a mild detergent and warm water, then rinse the cushions thoroughly. If your cushions have mildew, fill a bucket with 1 gallon of water, 1 cup of bleach, and a squirt of mild detergent. Test for colorfastness, then scrub with a soft brush and rinse.
• Umbrellas: to clean umbrellas, use a brush to wash with mild soap and water. Spray the joints of wire frames with silicone. If you have wooden framed umbrellas, use a wax or furniture polish to maintain the wood.
• Plastic furniture: should be cleaned using a mild detergent and warm water. You can clean the surface with a sponge to remove any dirt build-up. Hose down the furniture and let it air dry.

HOW TO PREVENT DOGS FROM "DOING THEIR BUSINESS" ON YOUR LAWN & GARDEN!

If you'd like to stop dogs from "fertilizing" your grass, plants, shrubs, trees, or sidewalk, I've got a non-toxic and harmless recipe for you.

To help "get a leg up" on those pesky dogs, here are the ingredients you need:

• Cloves of garlic
• Hot peppers (as hot as you can get!)
• Water

"How To Turn Your Lawn Into A World-Class Masterpiece!"

With the arrival of warmer weather, it's now time to re-energize your lawn! In this special feature, I will show you how to make your lawn healthy and green. Who knows, you may even end up being the envy of your neighbors!

Soil - One of the best things you can do to your soil is to aerate it. Aeration consists of making small holes in the soil that allow water, air and fertilizer to get closer to the roots. You can aerate your lawn by renting a walk-behind aerating device or you can poke holes in your lawn with a garden fork. You can also aerate your lawn by wearing golf shoes when you mow.

Watering - the best time to water your lawn is in the early morning when water pressure is greatest, evaporation is minimal and the lawn drinks in the most moisture.

How often to water - weather is the biggest determining factor when it comes to deciding how often to water. In the summer your best bet is to water every other day.

How much to water - Think of the soil as a sponge that holds water for the grass. You'll want to water deeply to wet the top 2 to 4 inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light watering as this will promote shallow root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions. The watering test: to determine how long to water your lawn, note the time when you start watering. Periodically open a wedge in the ground with a spade to check penetration. When the water reaches a depth of 4 inches, note how long it took to reach that depth.

Mowing - Mow regularly and cut no more than 1/3 of a grass's length at a time. Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on your lawn. Leaving the clippings on your lawn will supply about 25% of the fertilizer your lawn needs. The clippings are 90% water and generally decompose in 7 to 10 days.

Best time to mow - Early evening is the best time to mow. The late start gives grass blades time to recover before they're exposed to daytime heat and wind. Never mow when the grass is wet, as this can damage your lawn.

Best mowing technique - Each time you cut your lawn, it's actually best to alternate the direction you mow. This keeps grass from developing permanent ridges, ruts or becoming compacted from constant traffic.

Weeds can make a beautiful lawn look unsightly. When forming a strategy to control weeds in your lawn, there are three things you need to keep in mind: the type of grass you have, the type of weed you have, and what your control options are.

The Two Weed types.

Broadleaf: in general, there are two types of plant leaves: broadleaf and grassy. Common broadleaf weeds include henbit, dandelion, spurge, and wild onion. These weeds are easy to spot, after all, they're not a grass, so they must be weeds!

Grassy: these weeds will have a course appearance. They are, however, not as noticeable as broadleaf weeds. Crab grass is one of the most common grassy weeds you'll find. Weeds increase their numbers one of two ways. from seed or they sprout from their underground root system. For example, crab grass grows from seed in the spring and matures in summer. Weeds that grow through their underground root system include: dandelion and wild onion.

Weed killers.

Pre-emergent: pre-emergent weed killers are designed to prevent weed seeds from germinating. They differ in the kind of weeds they control (broadleaf and grassy) and the length of time the killer remains active. For summer weeds, like crab grass, apply the pre-emergent killer in the spring when night temperatures are above 50 degrees. You must apply this killer before the weed seeds germinate! To apply the product, simply water it into the ground. Beware, pre-emergents do not discriminate, they will prevent grass seed from sprouting just as effectively as weed seed!

Post-emergent: this weed killer is used after the weeds have emerged. The best time to use a post-emergent killer is on a warm spring day when the weeds are still actively growing. The best thing you can do is go out and study your lawn. Determine what kind of weeds you have or may have. When you determine which type of weed is infesting your lawn, you can lay out an action plan to restore your lawn to a weed-free masterpiece!

Follow these simple steps to proper lawn care, and you'll have a beautiful lawn that you can be proud of.

"How To Determine If It's Time To Replace Your Roof"

Asphalt roofing shingles deteriorate slowly over time. This can make it difficult to determine when to sink time and money into repairing an older roof and when to invest in a new roof.
The longevity of your roof depends on many factors, including: shingle weight, the quality of installation, and the degree of exposure.
Shingles that last 25 years on one house may only last 15 years on another. Shingle decay is the most accurate indicator of your roof's remaining life.
There are three stages of shingle wear and decay that you can spot from the ground.

1. In stage one, the colored stone granules that are embedded in the shingle's asphalt surface begin to wear away. This stage is easy to spot on a light-colored roof because as the granules wear away, you will see patches of the base material, jet-black asphalt exposed.
   
   If you have a dark-colored roof, you may need to do an up-close inspection of the shingles. Generally, roofs do not leak at this stage. The asphalt, however, becomes brittle and begins to curl.
2. In stage two, bare spots of asphalt become clearly visible and are widespread. The roof will appear blotchy and gray.
   
   At this point, in most cases, it's still possible to correct the problem by installing a new layer of shingles over your existing shingles. This is called a "layover" and is less costly than tearing off the existing shingles and starting from scratch.
3. In stage three, exposed sections of your shingles will crack and begin to break off. You'll also find worn shingles in your gutters or on the ground. You'll also see exposed nail heads on your roof that were previously covered by the missing shingles.
   
   At this stage, the missing shingles will cause bare spots on your roof. If you don't have leaks already, you soon will. If you're only missing a few shingles, it's still possible to lay a new layer of shingles over your existing roof.
   
   If, however, you have many spots where your shingles have worn away, most of the remaining shingles are probably so brittle and curled that a new layer won't lie flat. In this case, a complete removal of the old shingles and replacement with new shingles is necessary.

Always Wanted a Pond?
Put One in This Weekend!

Even the smallest backyard can benefit from the addition of a pond - and it's not nearly as difficult as you might think to put one in!

You have two main choices - using a plastic liner or buying a pre-formed garden pool. The latter is more expensive, but easier. Both are available at larger garden centers.

If you use plastic liner, the guiding rule is to buy enough for double the depth that you're planning. This will provide enough overlap for ledges and for the pool's top edges.

STEP 1: Dig the hole for the pond. If you're planning to have fish, a depth of over 3' helps keep fish safe from animals. For those in colder climates, it also increases the chances of keeping fish alive through freezing temperatures.

If using a pre-formed pool, dig the pool a little wider than the shape of the pool. If using plastic liner, slope the sides down and create shallow-level shelves. Place a wooden plank across the hole and use a level to check that it is straight.

STEP 2: Remove any sharp stones from the hole and then cover with 1" of sand and firm.

STEP 3:Pre-formed pool - Place the pool in the hole and check for level. Fill in the gap around the sides and press down firmly. Now fill with water. That's it!

STEP 3:Plastic liner - Unfold liner into the hole with at least 6" overlap at the top edges. Make neat folds in the liner to shape to the hole where needed. Weight the overlap down with bricks or rocks and slowly fill the pond with water. When it's full, remove the weights. Cut off any overlap beyond 6" and then hide the overlap under rocks or bricks. You're finished!

For a great final touch, add plants, like water lilies and water hyacinths, and a few goldfish. To protect against mosquitoes and to keep the pond healthy, you may also want to add a fountain feature that keeps the water moving. Garden centers have a good variety, along with pumps. The basic ones are easy and fast to install - just follow the package directions

Dollar Stretching Ideas for
Patio Planters!

Flower-filled planters from the store look great, but let's face it - they can break the bank! We've gathered some brilliant ideas that cut costs and add up to an even more impressive effect.

USE FREE PLANTERS! Look around your home and you'll find numerous containers just waiting to be planted! Large wooden boxes, old wheelbarrows, baskets, small garbage bins, ice-cream tubs, large cans, paint cans, open-topped watering cans, old bird feeders or bird houses, bird baths, large plastic bowls.they can all do the job.

Just paint the outside if needed and drill a couple of holes in the bottom for drainage. You can also get a great look by cutting off the tops of those party-size clear plastic jugs that some beverages are sold in.

SAVE ON PLANTER SOIL! Don't blow your budget filling very large planters with expensive potting soil. Fill halfway with regular garden soil and add potting soil on top.

CUT COSTS - ADD PERENNIALS! Instead of forking out a fortune every year for annuals that die after the season, add some perennials to every planter. Some hostas, for example, have stunning foliage and will last the winter in a garage or shed. Day lilies make a dazzling display surrounded by annuals. Trailing perennials, such as ivies and ground cover, look great hanging down from planters.

SAVE WITH SEEDS! When you plant your annuals, throw in some fast-growing seeds like nasturtium. Your planters will be overflowing with color later in the season when other flowers are starting to look tired.

Fixing That Cracked Sidewalk

Have a crack in your concrete sidewalk? One of the best ways to repair a cracked sidewalk is to purchase a vinyl concrete patch, found at your local home improvement or hardware store. The cost is minimal, around $10 for 50 lbs. The vinyl patch is a fine powdered cement with vinyl fortifiers, and it really sticks to old concrete that has been properly prepared. You can trowel it as thin as 1/16 in.

To prepare the concrete for repair, you should first remove all the loose material with a chisel and/or steel brush. Then rinse the area well with water. A spray nozzle on a garden hose works great. Make sure to sponge out puddles of water before applying the vinyl patch, but leave the area damp. Now apply the vinyl patch with a trowel or putty knife.

You will notice that as you work it, vinyl patching material becomes stickier and harder to smooth so don't wait long to apply it after you've mixed it. You will notice instant results that will hold up even during the cold winter months.

Summer Maintenance Planner

"The Fall Home-Maintenance Checklist"

Now that the dog days of summer are finally behind us and the cooler months have arrived, it's time to prepare your home for the climate and precipitation changes we will face.

The following maintenance chores may not seem too rewarding now, but as harsher weather conditions return, you should sleep better at night knowing your home is prepared.

• Inspect your roof. If you can do it safely, go onto your roof to check for cracked or missing shingles. Also check for missing or damaged flashing around your vent pipes, skylights, and chimney. These conditions might allow leaks. In most cases, minor cracks and tears can be sealed with roofing cement.
• Chimney and fireplace. Chimney cleaning is generally recommended once a year. If you only use your fireplace a few times a year, you can have it cleaned every couple of years. The important thing is to be sure that your chimney is free of creosote buildup - the charcoal-like residue left after burning wood. The creosote must be removed from your chimney, firebox, and hearth to prevent chimney fires.
• Unclog your gutters. Safely using a ladder, inspect your gutters for blockages. Remove all debris, leaves, and sticks from your gutters. Also, be sure that your downspouts are free of debris and that they funnel water away from your foundation. A clear gutter will help prevent foundation flooding and water damage to siding, windows, and doors.
• Service your heating system. Change your furnace filter according to your manufacturer's recommendations. Check your registers and ducts for any blockages. Using your vacuum, dust the registers and intake grills.
• Inspect siding. Check your siding for cracks, separation, and damage. In most cases, you can seal leaky spots with clear caulking compound designed for siding.
• The foundation. Do a close inspection of your foundation to check for signs of water damage. Be sure that the dirt around your home is graded to drain water away from your foundation. If your home has an underground drainage system or sump-pump, check to make sure it is operating properly.
• Prepare your lawn. remove leaves and other debris from your lawn. Prune trees and shrubs. Give your lawn a final cut. Also, you'll want to store patio furniture, gardening tools, and your grill.
• Your windows and doors. Check to see that your windows and doors are effectively sealed with weather-stripping. (Weather-stripping is individual lengths of rubber or plastic used to plug air leaks around doors and window frames). Replace or add weather-stripping around windows and doors to prevent drafts and heat loss.